At dawn and dusk, time seems to stand still at the port of Boulbinet, in the heart of Kaloum, the administrative center of Conakry. Here, the sun never truly sets. Even during Ramadan, activity doesn't slow down. Pirogues glide across the salty waters of the Atlantic, nets are patiently woven in the shade of the sheds, and a multitude of traders, fishmongers, taxi drivers, and buyers bustle about in a constant dance.

From the moment they step onto the landing stage, visitors are enveloped by a scent mingled with sea spray and fresh fish. The pirogues, lined up along the banks, tell the story of a maritime Africa open to the world. Several flags fly from their masts: those of Guinea, Sierra Leone, Senegal, and Gambia, but also France and even Turkey. A discreet yet powerful symbol of an activity that transcends national borders.

Konkoé, a hidden treasure of the Atlantic

On the quayside, the fishmongers scan the horizon. Some are already counting the fish they've landed, others are still waiting for their pirogue. In Boulbinet, almost all the fish species of the West African coast can be found. But one species dominates all the conversations: the konkoé (catfish).

For many visitors arriving in Conakry, tasting konkoé is almost an essential part of the experience. Smoked, grilled, or cooked in various local sauces, it has become a symbol of Guinean cuisine.

For artisanal fishermen, this fish is much more than a resource. It's a source of life. Ousmane Baba Camara has made it his specialty. For several years, he has crisscrossed the waters between Kamsar and the Guinea-Bissau border to catch this highly sought-after fish.

"I only fish for konkoé, from the distant waters of Kamsar to Guinea-Bissau. Fishmongers and consumers love it," he explains proudly.

But behind this wealth also lie concerns. According to him, the increasing presence of industrial vessels complicates the task of artisanal fishermen.

"Large boats often prevent fishermen from working and scare away the fish. The state must ensure that they stay further out to sea," he said, in an appeal to the authorities.

A chain of life carried by women

A few meters from the dock, in a pre-processing shed, the fish are sorted and counted. Adama Sacko, an official at the Ministry of Fisheries, carefully observes the arrivals. "We receive several species, but konkoé is the most common," he confirms.

Unlike other seasonal fish, konkoé is available almost year-round. This regularity is invaluable for the families who depend on this activity for their livelihood.

Further on, in the smoking shed, the air becomes thicker. The heat is intense, and the smoke stings the eyes of unaccustomed visitors. Around the traditional ovens called "banda," women work with impressive skill. On the smoking racks, only one type of tobacco dominates: konkoé.

Nbemba Adama Soumah perpetuates a family tradition passed down from generation to generation. "I only know this work. I buy the konkoé from the fishermen, I smoke it after butchering it and I sell it to customers. My mother already did this work, and her mother before her," she says.

For Mariame Camara, the secret to good smoked konkoé lies in the precision of the gesture. "After cleaning, we place the fish on the grills. Then, we turn it gently so that the inside cooks well and becomes oily," she explains.

A heritage to be valued

In Boulbinet, every player in the supply chain—fishermen, fishmongers, processors, and traders—shares the same ambition: to raise awareness of their expertise. It is in this spirit that the Konkoé Festival is being organized, an initiative spearheaded by the Guinean Culture and Pride organization. The event will take place from April 24 to 26, 2026, at the Bluezone in Dixinn, Conakry.

Beyond a simple gastronomic celebration, this festival aims to showcase Guinean artisanal fishing, a meeting place for producers, consumers, and lovers of African culinary culture. For in the port of Boulbinet, konkoé is not just a fish. It is the symbol of a heritage, a local economy, and a way of life that is the heart and soul of an entire community.

And as long as the canoes continue to return laden with their nets, Boulbinet will remain one of the most authentic faces of Guinea's maritime soul.